Tuesday, January 23, 2007

6 Months in Korea

Well it's been six full months since I set off on my merry little journey from Adelaide. I must say I feel pretty lucky the way things have gone so smoothly and am still glad to be here. To celebrate, I've decided to start blogging with bigger pictures.

Aah the fruits of labour. This is my new laptop that some helpful Koreans obtained for me through an auction website. It's very fast and with all the bells and whistles, Core Duo processor and bluecore. I ordered it on a Wednesday afternoon and it arrived on Thursday morning all the way from Seoul. And internet connection in Korea is superfast, I'm currently blogging from home with a 10Mb/s connection. It costs about thirty dollars a month.

See those girls standing under the little tent? They're promotion girls and their job is to stand outside a new business for a few hours and attract attention to it. They sing karaoke, dance and talk about things. This new shop has opened just over the road from us and so I arrived at work the other day listening to very loud Korean karaoke blaring from across the road. They were a bit out of tune and the day was raining and cold. The new shop they're promoting sells car tyres. How exciting.

This is what that new shop looks like on a sunny day. The whole building was constructed out of welded i-beams and sprung up in a couple of weeks. The Korean writing at the top says 'Wow! Our tyres are cheaper than shoes'.

This is the stairwell sign that welcomes patrons to the New York bar in Seomyeon. I'm not sure what it means, or if anybody actually said the quote, but it's amusing.

Here's me, hanging out in the bar with one of my older students from Haeundae, called Michelle. Michelle speaks Japanese and used to be a tour guide. Now she works as an operator in the hotel. In the mornings she sometimes gives me coffee or bread from the convenience store before class. What a sweetie.

And here are some more of my students from the same hotel. On the left is Michelle, then Emilia, Margaret and Heather from our language institute. I call them 'The Naughty Busan Ladies', because they're always gossiping and being cheeky.

This is Dave, who is a friend of a friend in Busan. Dave is one very cool guy who is a fighter jet pilot for the USAF based in Korea. He flies F-15s regularly between Hawaii and Gimhae in Busan and is getting relocated to the UK soon. Naturally after I found out he was a jet pilot I felt the need to ask him approximately six million questions. F-15s are a very technomalogically advanced combat aircraft and can climb to a ceiling of 10 Km from the ground in under 60 seconds.
Some of the more interesting things I learned from him are as follows:
- F-15 pilots wear 'poopy-suits' which are watertight plastic bag pants that you can toilet yourself in while flying. However, they are filled with a special chemical powder and so when you pee, a reaction takes place and all of your pee instantly turns into a solidified gel. Kinda like hairgel.
- When flying at night over the Pacific Ocean, it's standard to fly high up in the atmosphere. At such heights and with their nightvision helmets, Dave says 'the view is beautiful and you can see every star and all sorts of cool things like comets and things you'd never see at ground level'. It's apparently one of the best things about flying at night.
- Dave's fastest speed is Mach 1.7 (Mach 1 is the speed of sound, or 1,225.08 km/h). At that speed, things apparently get scary and bits can fall off the plane. When something goes wrong, it goes wrong in a big way. If you eject at Mach 1.7, you'll be fine, you just won't have any limbs.
- The USAF issues jet pilots with chemical stimulants which are basically identical to speed (methamphetamine). That's because during ten hour flights sitting in the same seat it's nearly impossible to stay awake. They also have sleepy pills to knock you out once you land. Dave has a whole bunch of leftover pills sitting at home but he's not allowed to give them to me.

Dave is a cool guy. Why didn't I think of being a fighter jet pilot? While he's flying a 30 million dollar aircraft at Mach 1.7, I'm teaching little kiddies how to say 'The small dog is happy, but the tall man is angry'. Mmm oh well.

For four days a week I'm working down at Haeundae beach, teaching English to hotel workers. It's a nice change from the classroom and definitely a different atmosphere. This is the view of the city from the floor that I teach at. I often gaze out of this window while I wait for the workers to turn up.

Hey look it's some kid licking a pig's nose. I didn't take this photo. I found it on the net today and thought it looked nice so I've posted it for you all.

In the local supermarket (called Homeplus), they have quite an impressive wine selection. Grape wine isn't very popular in Korea but it seems to be slowly catching on. The shelf on the immediate left is the Australian selection. There's a lot from near Adelaide, like Yellowtail, Penfolds, Deakin Estate, Hardy's and Lindemann's. Luckily my co-workers like Aussie wine too.

Last weekend we went to a new sushi train in Haeundae called Denfuku. It's a really nice place, with the best sushi I've had in Korea. They have a lot of strange dishes that I've never tasted before. I made a short movie clip that you can see at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVUFQLOvrzI

Here's one of the fusion style sushi dishes they have on offer. On top of the bed of rice is some sort of sea-vegetable topped with fish roe and cranberry sauce. It sounds like it might taste a little weird, but it actually goes together really well.

And here's one of my favourites. I'm not sure what the fish is, but it's really fresh and the yellow stuff is caviar attached to the fillet. Also the wasabi here is freshly ground and packs a punch if you take a little too much. I like wasabi punches, I always come back for more.

Later that evening we went to Sean's place. He's a friend of John and lives near the beach. There were a few people there that night and a nice amount of drinking going on.

We were introduced to soju-pong, which is an interesting game played by English teachers here. The aim is to take turns throwing ping pong balls into other people's cups. The cups have soju in them. When you land one in, the other team has to drink it. If the ball bounces off the rim of the cup and bounces once, you can catch it and the person who threw it has to drink. John and I were pretty newbie at it, so we lost badly. That's me playing there, with John. See, I'm drinking two cups simultaneously.

Soju is about 20% alcohol and is made from rice and possibly old bits of fermented cardboard. This is what the view looked like from our end of the table after we'd taken a few hits. Note the realistic soju blurriness.

Sean has put up his own blank wallpaper in his flat, so that people can write whatever they like on it. A lot of it is interesting and humourous. It kinda reminds me of the old toilet wall graffiti in the university library toilets.

Last weekend we went to a popular bar for westerners, called U2. It's not a bad place, lots of dancing and merriment. From various information sources I have learned that the Russian bar chick who works here is married to the Korean dude that owns it. Sometimes they give us free popcorn.

These punching machines are pretty common throughout Korea. The idea is to punch them hard and find out how much stronger you are than your friends. I pass this one on the way to work in the mornings and it plays some pretty funky techno music. It's called 'Health Punch'.
I still don't know why.

Here's a sign near my house. I guess it means no horn-tooting, but I like to think that it could be any number of other things. Like 'no trombones', 'no music' or 'no cavalry charges'.

So now that I have a new computer, does that mean I'll be blogging more often? Possibly. I guess it really depends on whether I find things interesting enough to share with you all. Maybe I'll post less, but more often. Hmm, food for thought. Cyas!

Monday, January 01, 2007

Christmas and New Year's

Well christmas and New Year's have come and gone in Korea. I was working for much of the time but got a chance to get out and celebrate.

Christmas in Korea isn't celebrated as much as it is in the west, but department stores like Lotte tend to decorate for commercial reasons. Here is a christmas tree on top of the Seomyeon world globe with the back-to-front Australia on it.

Some more sparkly lights. This would have been my first white christmas if it had snowed. It has snowed twice since I've been here, but only tiny sprinkles here and there. Enough to give you dandruff, but not snowmen.

Here is a tree, with some sky, on a cold Busan morning. I now own a pair of gloves and a scarf, items I only wore for fun when I was a young boy back in Australia.

This is a poster in the New York bar in Seomyeon. Sounds like a fun game, requiring face shields.

Towards the end of the year, a bar called Dove in Dongnae had a little party for us. Some of the teachers visit there regularly and one of them is dating a barman. These things tend to happen easily in Korea.

Here is one of our teachers, who may or may not be dating aforementioned and pictured barman. It was a good night and then we ended up going somewhere else.

Santa was good enough to pay us a visit, even though we weren't always such good children this year. He lost a lot of weight and his English has gone wonky since last time I saw him. Ho ho.

Our company also put on an end of year show at Dalmaji hill, which is a scenic part of Haeundae, overlooking the beach. This is kind of what the view looked like, but further away.

There were around 70 or so staff members, with an alcohol supply and a Korean band. Fairly good, except the food took way too long to come out. The last person at our table got their food when the rest of us had finished over an hour prior.

A view of the restaurant from the patio area outside.

Here's me with some of our school staff. We're a pretty cool mob and everyone gets along well. That guy who looks slightly flushed and possibly inebriated is John, our new teacher from Canada. He just bought an X-box 360. Mmm.

And after we had consumed the necessary beverage quotas, some reached karaoke flashpoint and began to sing. I believe this particular song was 'It's raining men.'

On Christmas eve we ate bossam at a restaurant in Haeundae. These photos are of me, talking about various topics while waiting for the bossam to arrive. They were taken by an anonymous photographer, who I'm sure was listening intently.

And this is bossam. It's a combination of steamed pork and vegetable dishes that you wrap up in cabbage leaves and dip in chilli sauce. Quite delicious and easy to eat.

On christmas day I invited the teachers over to my little flat for a dinner party. Jef made pumpkin stew, Elissa made salad and I made curry. We drank and played games and it turned out to be a really good night.

Here's a special christmas greeting from Jef and Amanda to the Lee's Korea Blog readers.

And then, before we knew it, it was New Year's eve already. We had a buffet dinner at the beach and then went for a walk. There were a lot of people out and about.

There were some drumming performances and people selling food. It had a carnival atmosphere to it. As the final hours of 2006 dwindled, more and more people arrived at the beach.

Someone had built this candlelit buddah sculpture out of sand which was rather pretty. There were also some vendors selling special helium balloons, that carried candles and wishes scrawled on paper, off into the night sky.

At the stroke of midnight, fireworks lit up and everyone cheered. Pretty much your average New Year's, except with a tonne of Koreans on a beach sharing it with you.

So that was my festive season. Quite enjoyable really, but I can't believe it's 2007 already.

Anyway, here is one of the many trucks that patrol the narrow streets of Korea during the day. They sell a variety of produce, mainly vegetables, and they drive along at a snails pace. Kind of similar to the ice-cream trucks back home. A loud speaker recording calls out the prices of each particular item in a dreary voice. It's woken me up on many a hungover morning.

Well that's all for me again. Hopefully this year will be as interesting as the last. Cyas!

Wednesday, December 13, 2006

Kadok Island

We got a new teacher last week, from Canada, who seems pretty cool and so we went out to celebrate. This is what the table setting looked like, from a good sashimi restaurant in Dongnae. Sashimi is called hue in Korean. Moving down to coastal Busan, I thought I'd be eating a lot more fish in meals but it's been pretty much the same as in Seoul.

I first thought this was some sort of pork from Jeju. It's actually whale meat and I only found out after eating it. I'm guessing it was from a pilot whale or something because the skin was so dark. It tasted fairly average, kind of like fishy beef. Not something worth going out of your way for.

These are some weird fish with big heads that you can eat. They're always curled up like cats and I have no idea what their English name is.

On the weekend we went to Kadok Island, the third biggest island in Korea. It's really close to Busan and you can get to the ferry terminal by bus. The bus will take you about half an hour and the ferry less than 10 minutes to the island.

Oh and here's some other food that I ate that same day. This is gulgukbab, an oyster rice soup that is easy to find in Busan, but less common elsewhere. For about $4 you can get a bowl of it, steaming hot with seaweed and fresh oysters. Good breakfast food.

Back to the ferry now. The ride only cost us about $3 and was fairly pleasant. The ferries constantly travel around the island during the day because there isn't a bus service. When you're tired of one part of the island, you just wait at the ferry-stop and hop on. These little kids were fighting over a bag of chips.

The island is about fifteen square kilometres and has small settlements around the place. It has it's own police station and high school, but there weren't many people out and about. We decided to have a walk up the mountain and see what was on the other side.

There seemed to be a well-established farming community, with a lot of these rice steps built into the mountain. Farming on mountains is a little bit strange coming from Australia because everything back home is very flat.

Here's a dilapidated house that looked like it had been more recently used for a soju party. I find abandoned places like these to be pretty interesting because I always wonder what makes someone pack up and leave a house behind. Would they lock the doors?

A nice artificial lake built into the mountain and unfit for swimming. Come to think about it, I haven't been swimming since I came to Korea.

We wound our way up a mountain path that turned out to be a few kilometres long. It was a pleasant walk and we had plenty of time. Those tarpaulins in the distance are covering firewood that people have chopped and left around the place.

So we got over one small mountain and the view was picturesque. Well worth the effort. There are islands in many of the harbour areas around southern Korea and most of them are heavily forested and uninhabited.

An eunheng namu, or 'bank tree'. These trees are golden yellow and seem to shed all of their leaves very suddenly, over the space of a few days.

The fallout is a little more appreciable up close. I wish my bank balance looked like this.

In the second small town we reached, we boarded the ferry again. We were actually running down the mountain to get on it and it took off, but then an island ajumma yelled and waved her hands and it pulled back in for us. Nice people. The boat stopped at another town before heading back to Busan.


It doesn't look like it, but that day was freezing cold. I had a really thick jacket on and my hands in my pockets were still frozen. I was also surprised to see ice on the roads of the island, at 3pm in the afternoon. There's never ice on the roads back home, so my Korean friend had difficulty understanding my excitement. I guess my Aussie temperament is a little too mild for these arctic outposts.

Now we're back in Busan, ferreting down a tunnel at high speeds. Koreans like to build lots of tunnels because there are lots of mountains.

This is what a DVD bang, or DVD room looks like on the inside. You can find these all over Korea. There are twenty or so rooms on average and you just pick a movie and watch it in private on a projection screen. The couches are pretty comfortable and so these are popular places for young couples to get snuggly.

This is from a Japanese restaurant in the Kyungsan area. I tend to prefer the Japanese style sushi over Korean kimbap because the rice is flavoured with vinegar. Also on the table is some seafood soup, udon noodles and off the photo on the left is some eel rice. Eel tastes a bit fatty and is an interesting alternative to fish.

It appears that some people love eye. I really like the ambiguity in this message. There's all sorts of interesting Konglish around the place, especially on people's shirts. But much of that passes by in the heat of the moment and I can't photograph it. Best to come over and see it for yourself.

See you all again after christmas! I'm working christmas and new years day (it isn't regarded as anything particularly special here), but still having a celebration or two. Should be good. Cyas!